This is a truly lovely example of an early 20th century cameo.
Cameos have had incredible staying power in the history of decorative arts: the ancient Greeks and Romans adored gemstone cameos. The cameo cutting industry flourished in the 1920s and 1930s, with settings that reflected the fashions of the time. Marcasite - small pointed or rounded facets set in silver - were quite popular and adorned all kinds of items. In this piece, Marcasite is used to great effect in the quatrefoil frame. Delicate filigree work fills the spaces between the frame and the bezel.
The cameo cutter has carved the portrait of a generously proportioned woman with a Grecian nose and a sharp chin. A flower is pinned to her flowing hair and there's a nosegay on her bosom. You can see how the cameo has been worked through the layers, with a delicate peach tone in the outermost layer and darker tones below. There are three spots of deep rust color showing the variegated color of the shell. The cameo is set in a sterling silver bezel.
This piece is 1 5/8” (40mm) x 1 3/8” (35mm) and weighs 10.8g. The frame is marked “STERLING”; the content was confirmed with a DXL Precious Metal Tester. The piece did not respond to a heavy magnet, indicating that it is solid sterling.
The date range for this piece was established by stylistic similarities found with other pieces in my reference books (see photo of page from “The Art and Mystique of Shell Cameos (Aswad and Weinstein, 1991) and by the closure. The pin back has a spring ring clasp, which didn't come into use until the early 20th Century.
The piece is in very good vintage condition. There is surface wear, which is typical for its age. One marcasite is missing but it is situated right at a quatrefoil corner, where it is pretty inconspicuous. The clasp works fine.
In short, a beautiful piece that I am pleased to offer at an buy attractive price.
Your cameo will arrive in a pretty presentation box to which a gift message may be added.
Product code: Lovely Art Deco Sterling Silver Cameo Brooch with Marcasite and Filigree buy Frame